Відео

I'm not sure I follow. These are press in bearings. What do you mean by "standard BB tool"?

@@CodyYankey For the spider where you use the Sram tool.

@@rawmancemtb gotcha, no, that's a standard BB tool for the clutch lock but. So the SRAM 68-73mm style external bearings.

I did not. The alternator belt wasn't slipping on mine. I could see how one could have some charging issues with it though.

It was a small company called Trackspeed Engineering. They closed up shop in 2022. You might be able to find something similar on Miataturbo.net. They usually do group buys or have people making one off parts. Be mindful to post though. They can be brutal.

Yeah, damaging the old moto trails for sure.

@@bsheetz1719 strawman me all you want - just saying it's against the rules. I have a whole laundry list of rules i find pointless in life, maybe i'll start breaking em and others should do the same

@@luke1754 sounds like a good plan....worrying more about what you do rather than what others are doing. Great start bud! Have fun out there!

Thanks for the view and comment. You directly contributed to my ebike maintenance fund. Feel free to post on my other videos! I encourage it even!

It’s a HOV still or no?

I went with the 60mm rise. I'm right at 6 foot on a large frame. Next change for me will be the dropper.

What would you use to insulate?

@@CodyYankey : To block the heat from you exhaust manifold toward you POD filter, even a layer from outside could help a lot.

@@Grenadieros I understand the concept. I'm asking what you would use to achieve the desired effect.

Yeah, the holes were very close to the opening. It sounds like you may have drilled oversized holes for the hardware. You might be able to fix that with tightening down the screws a bit more.

Also was talking to a friend and was asked if I set preload on the side bearings (I didnt touch pinion), I’m about confused because to achieve required backlash - the adjust screw has to naturally apply load on the bearing anyways.. is that not preload in itself? By trying to make sure the same amount of preload is applied on both adjuster screw sides, I end up exactly where I had marked them prior to disassembly.

@@threadscrossedmechanic1622 I just saw this comment man, Sorry for the super late reply. I don't remember my backlash numbers as it's been years since I did this. I set the backlash by the adjustment "screws", "caps"? I don't know what they are called, but even just torquing down the housing would change my backlash. As for preload, the only way to adjust that is by shims. Either buying oversized shims or cutting some out of a can/copper sheet. I also did not touch the pinion gear. Setting backlash and preload is pretty easy in comparison to setting the pinion . Have you had a change to drive on the diff yet?

Yeah, the measurements wouldn't change, but the wear surface does. If you look at your discs you will see one side has noticeably more wear than the other, at least it was this way for mine and some of the others during my research. If I was to do it again, I would go in and shim the diff for a bit more preload. It was fine for 200TW stuff back in 2016, but modern tires are way more sticky and overcome the diff in some situations. What are you throwing the diff in?

@@CodyYankey when you say preload, go oversize on the shims? I see mazdatrix offers +.2mm thrustwashers and +.1mm friction plates. It’s just for drifting, though I use the cheapest chinese tires at 235/40r17

​@@threadscrossedmechanic1622 You can go over on the plates but you can also just cut an aluminum can up and place the shims on the inside of the conical washers. It just gives you more preload and more breakaway torque as it will be about +.2mm thickness. I think you also need to run a friction modifier with the diff, which also lessens preload. For a drift car on hard tires, you might not have any issues with just reassemble of the spec parts though. Super sticky tires I would sometimes lift a tire in autocross and the diff would unload. Never had that happen on track though.

@@CodyYankey my friend said a Sapporo can works best, JDM material 😂

@@threadscrossedmechanic1622 Ha, going to recommend that to my other commenters in the future. That's hilarious.

I installed some later on a friend's EF civic 90 degrees out and it looked pretty good. 45 degrees would be cool but, difficult to replicate exactly on both sides. I would need to do a template that I could flip or something to make them match. Fun idea though and probably looks great on certain cars. I don't think you could mount it in more than a single layer. The single layer of aluminum has been good enough for me, maybe a rally car or drift car would need more rigidity for panel mounts?

Yeah, it's a very nice product. I was impressed with the quality of the individual components. You can find sales around the holidays, but it's only 10-15% off retail.

No. I don't go that deep into my videos. You could do this job with a pretty basic kit, you might just need to be creative with the ball joints and tie rod ends.

Yeah it was like a 21mm, 19mm, 14mm and whatever else you need for the random bolts replaced by some hack lol @@CodyYankey

@@ryanganmedia Lol, that's another thing about old cars. By the time you get to them, they have been run through by some many, no telling what someone has done or damage they had caused. Sounds like you got it done though!

yeah it was like 15 min haha super easy, but this video helped a ton bc I knew what I was getting into thanks to you! @@CodyYankey

@@ryanganmedia Glad to be of some help.

Welcome back time traveler.

No clue, you would probably need to email Rocky and ask.

I have no idea, over 50lbs but under 60lbs.... probably?

When you talk about the spacer you added. What do you mean by a "normal threaded BB spacer"? My chain-line didn't deviate between the OEM composite material BB shell and the RaceFace aluminum shell I used. I've also never had a preload ring snap on me, but I also don't over-torque that tiny 2mm bolt. It only requires like 9in-lbs. No idea about the North Shore Billet set. The 165mm Atlas setup works well for me. I could see maybe going to 160s in the low position but out here in Colorado it's so rocky I don't really want my BB that low. I could see how the sprag clutch would be annoying in wet climates. I've not had an issue with it but we are about as opposite as it gets climate wise.

@@CodyYankey Hi, thanks for the reply. Okay, so the Hope PF41 bottom bracket is literally 2 oversized bearings you press directly into the frame, it means they’re flush against the frame which misaligned the bottom roller. Yours didn’t change because the bottom bracket had cups (which is probably a better idea for this bike). Luckily I had a spare spacer from a standard threaded 73mm bottom bracket (the type to space from 68mm to 73mm bb) I was able to use to realign the chain. I hadn’t had a preload split on me either, but another UA-camr had a weekend ruined by a damaged one which snapped with no warning, I just wanted to highlight that there’s a couple of other options available. And finally, the 165mm Atlas cranks are a slight improvement over the standard length but I’ve still done a lot of damage to the ends of the crank arms and also some OneUp pedals with rock strikes while climbing rough trails and adding air to the rear shock only helps so much even in the high setting, hence me being desperate to try shorter.

@@heywood165 Gotcha. I have never used HOPE products but everyone in Europe seems to love them. The factor Ride cranks my LG Altitude was spec'd with said 170mm but they were 175mm total length. The 165 Atlas are 165mm total. It helped me a ton but yeah, my crank arms are still banged up. I also ride 1UP aluminum pedals and they are trashed. Colorado is pretty rough on components though. Thanks for the heads up on the cinch lock ring. I'll keep my eye on it. I do have a spare in my bike bag but I don't carry one with me. I could see how having one split would be a total PITA to deal with on trail.

Thanks brother. If you are in the Lakewood or Golden area, look into pedal pushers and wheat ridge cyclery. They should do emtb demos. Wheat ridge does stock Spesh but I don't know their demo fleet. Check out Floyd Hill and lair of the bear while here. October will be great for some front range riding.

@@CodyYankey This is helpful, thx buddy.

Thanks, I was having some creaking in the headset. I could have lived with it but I had the opportunity to replace it. It's a Chris King Inset 2 44/56mm.

@@CodyYankey Thanks!

Are you asking about hanging the steering rack in place?

Yeah, they should be the same. You may have some plastic stuff to deal with that might be different, but the subframes on NAs and NBs are interchangeable. I run a full NB setup on my NA.

I went with the 89/92 for mine. Not sure how important that is to be honest.

According to RM, it's a BB 89.5

It's a pretty universal thing. Like it does headsets as well up to 56mm. It's just some turned aluminum flippable inserts with an all-thread center. I found it on eBay here in the states. A normal BB tool is pretty costly as is a headset tool. This one was maybe $50.

Why would the intake box be better with a different filter?

I was talking about the filter in the cool montage at the beginning of the video. People told me the same thing about spectre when I got one because of my budget but when I swapped it for k&n I noticed a huge difference. The box is awesome tho I’m giving it a try👍

Totally ruined

Yup, thanks e-bikes!

Yeah, the weather wasn't perfect but wow was it fun. There is some pretty lengthy climbing but the ebike really flattens it out. We ended up doing 3 runs and just under 20 miles. Fantastic addition to Lair.

It shouldn't be but maybe you need a different type of grease or no grease. I'm not sure how the Bottom Brackets are setup with the Carbon models so you'd need to research that. However the parts should still be the same.

I wouldn't clamp a Carbon frame but aluminum or steel, meh.

It should but with carbon bikes there might be something else involved. I've never done the work on a carbon model.

Those were used A7s.

You might have luck with a carbon option in that length or possibly a youth? I never looked below 160mm for options. I've ridden on 155s before and I felt like a hamster in a wheel trying to keep cadence.

I’m hoping to try North Shore Billet’s Talon Crankset in the future. If it works I’ll try and remember to post here.

Seems the only option is to drill and shorten Race Face Atlas or Turbine cranks. From what I found nothing fits with 155mm cranks because the selection is so limited for traditional BBs.